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Serbia and Montenegro is bent on rapid reform and consigning to history its associations with despotic rulers, failed socialism and war. Witnessing this transition and rediscovering a region of forgotten beauty, culture and history will reward and surprise even the most jaded traveller. What remains of former Yugoslavia is Serbia and Montenegro, a child still not on its feet, that has already seen its first Prime Minister assassinated and one of its members (Montenegro) still to decide if it even wants to be part of the new body.